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| S
A I L S A N D S O N G S |
| Those who are privileged to visit San Francisco never fail to recall with pleasure
their stroll along this citys historic Fishermans Wharf. Here they can peer
down at the fishing craft gently riding in the calm water, or pause to watch fishermen
mending a net and listen to shouted Latin-tongued exchanges between the followers of the
sea. Most of the boats in view belong to a "third generation" of
fishing craft which have made history at the "Wharf". |
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From the days of the
Gold Rush until the turn of the Century, the San Francisco fishing fleet was composed of
lateen-rigged sailboats. They were copies of the craft which the Italian fishermen knew in
their native land. Green was the prevailing color of the tiny boats, and the name of a
patron saint appeared on the hull. The fishermen themselves were as colorful as their
craft. Their natural talent for song was to be heard in renditions of arias from Verdi,
lusty if not always true to the ear. In the fog-shrouded waters outside the Golden Gate,
the singing was a means of communication. You could not see a companion boat, but you knew
it was there.
The "second-generation" of fishing boats came with the introduction of
gasoline engines; small but dependable "put-puts". What became known as the
Monterey Hull boats came into general use. The gas engine made it possible to fish more
days of the year, gave a wider range for their operation in the ocean water and provided
power to haul in the nets or lines.
Even today, several hundred of the Monterey-type boats remain as a part of the fishing
fleet. Often likened to the "vintage" automobiles of the Model-T era, the
Monterey Hull craft ride at harbor alongside a "'third generation" of commercial
fishing boats; diesel-powered craft which overshadow them in size; cruising capacity and
are often equipped with two-way radio telephones and "sonar" depth-finders.
In those older days the fishermen got their news about the weather from Nature instead
of a radio report. If the moon was in the east, the tide was coming in; or if in the west,
the tide was flowing out the Golden Gate. A circle around the moon meant rain. Porpoises
playing around the boat indicated a bad wind was brewing.
Old timers around Fisherman's Wharf have other tales to tell, recalled from the period
of the last sailboats. It was hard work. If the boat was becalmed, they waited long hours
for a breeze, or got out the oars and rowed. Sometimes they would throw a grappling hook
into the rudder chain of a passing steamer and get an easy ride home. When the steamer
crews called out imprecations against these marine hitchhikers, the Italian fishermen
screamed right back in words that soon became a part of waterfront "lingo".
In those earlier periods the favorite fishing spots were outside the Golden Gate, just
beyond the waves breaking on the rocks and sandy beaches. It took great skill to manage
the boats so they did not drift ashore and be wrecked. In terms of money, the rewards were
very low, if today's standards of value are to serve as a measure. The average fisherman
made $2 or $3 a week, sometimes as much as $5. But, on the other hand a loaf of bread
could be bought for less than five cents, and good red wine came from grapes that could be
purchased for $5 a ton.
Today, as in the past, it is the fishing fleet, operated by the grandsons and
great-grandsons of these past generations, which make Fishermans Wharf a place of
activity; the center of an ocean-oriented industry beloved by native San Franciscans and
visitors alike. |
| D
U N G E N E S S C R A B |
| Fishermans Wharf, which has been the home of San Franciscos
colorful fishing fleet for nearly a century and a quarter, is world famous for its wide
variety of ocean fish. Much of this fame is due to the annual harvest of that most
delectable of all crustaceans, the Dungeness crab of San Francisco.
The opening of crab
season in November is a festive occasion. It is the day when the cauldrons along
Fisherman's Wharf are lighted, ready to receive the boxes piled high with Dungeness crab
hoisted from the decks of the first boats that come chuffing back into port. It is a time
for gourmet feasting that will last through the weeks and months to follow.
Traditionally, the opening of the crab season is preceded with a religious procession
and a priestly blessing of the fleet. The boat decks are piled high with crab traps. The
first day's harvest is anxiously awaited as an indication of what the season will bring
the "crabbers" as a reward for their work.
A century ago, Chinese fishermen and the early arriving Italians with their
lateen-rigged Genoese sailboats, found crabs in plentiful supply from the Straits of
Carquinez on the inland reaches of San Francisco Bay to the sandy shorelines off Berkeley,
Oakland and Alameda. Over the years, clams, the natural food of the crab, disappeared from
the Bay. The best crab catches were then made just outside the Golden Gate. Today, the
"crabbrs" must drop their crab pots far out near the Farallon Islands in 18 to
35 fathoms of ocean water.
When the crab fishermen arrive at their fishing ground, their first chore is to set the
crab traps, made of wire and about the size and shape of a tire. Inside each they place a
bait jar and drop the weighted pot over the side. A small marker buoy painted with the
owner's colors and tethered to the trap floats to the surface. Each of the boats may drop
up to 200 pots. By the time the last pots have been dropped, night has fallen. In the
early dawn it is time to begin hauling in the traps. Only the largest crabs are selected.
The smaller ones are returned to the water.
In the early days of the fishing fleet, good food based on the Italian cuisine was to
be found only in the homes of the area. But, even before there were any sidewalks or
restaurants at Fishermans Wharf some of the fishermen set up cauldrons of boiling
water in which to cook the freshly caught crabs and dispensed them in paper cups as a crab
cocktail to be enjoyed by visitors.
During the last quarter century many restaurants have been established, with the
traditional steaming crab cauldron in front of their place of business. Men in smocks
attend the cauldrons and still offer the visitors paper cups of fresh-cooked crab meat
cocktails, or whole cooked crabs to take home.
Many of the dishes available at these restaurants are developments of seafood dishes
which the fishermen parents or grandparents of the present operators prepared in their
native Italy, or in their San Francisco homes. It is dining such as to be found in no
other place. |
| T
H E C A B L E C A R |
| San Franciscos cable cars are an accepted mode of daily
transportation for San Franciscans, and an eagerly sought adventure for every visitor.
This year marks the cable car's 125th anniversary, an event already recognized in a
commemorative U.S. stamp. And since 1964, the cable car has been designated by the
National Park Service as a "national landmark".
The inventor of the cable car
was Andrew Hallidie, a Scottish engineer and wire rope manufacturer. The inspiration for
it is said to have come from an incident observed by Hallidie in 1869. He reportedly came
upon a team of four horses struggling to haul a public conveyance up a steep San Francisco
street. One horse slipped on the fog-slick cobblestones, causing the car to roll backward
dragging all four horses with it. He promised himself he would put an end to this
unintentional cruelty to animals.
As an engineer, it did not take Hallidie long to design the cable railway, by which an
engaged cable in a slot would carry a car uphill or down at the same speed. Financing the
project was more difficult, but faith and confidence prevailed and construction began in
May, 1872. Many labeled it "Hallidies Folly". Laboring against a franchise
deadline granted by skeptical city fathers, Hallidie and his crew worked through the night
on the final day of grace. On August 2, 1873 at five a.m., Hallidie took the grip man's
position in the original cable car and triumphantly made the first run from the top of Nob
Hill, safely down steep Clay Street to the wonderment of the doubting spectators.
Today the cable cars still run from Hallidie Plaza at Market Street, up Powell Street,
past the hotels on Nob Hill, and down to Fisherman's Wharf beside the Golden Gate,
providing the scenic ride which is the preferred mode of transportation for most of the
millions of people who visit Fisherman's Wharf annually. |
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